Mont blanc 4.807m

This is the second highest mountain in Europe and it stands as an immense snow cone between the Chamonix and Aosta valleys. With its 4.807 metres high, it allows us to perform an amazing high mountain ascension in the most well-known massif of the Alps.

This programme is designed to be completed in a week, starting in Chamonix. We can meet the day that suits you the best and use the following six days, being the most common to make it from Sunday to Saturday. The programme is designed to achieve the maximum performance and enjoyment to the weekend, making it seem like a “technical course”, so in addition to carrying out the activity, you can learn new technical knowledge. The acclimatisation is usually made with the ascension to the grand Paradis, the four-thousand metres high mountain most known in the national park with the same name, to confront the ascension to the Mont Blanc through the “four-thousands” metres mountains route, less frequented than its normal route and more alpine.

If you already made the Grand Paradiso or if you wish to climb via the normal route (Goûter) tell us and we will adjust the plan.

 Programme

• • Day 1: Meeting point in Chamonix at 19:00 in the Church square.
  • Day 2: Chamonix –Val Savarange – Climb to Vittorio Enmanuelle shelter (2775 metres) in Italy.
  • Day 3: Vittorio Enmanuelle shelter– Ascension to the Grand Paradiso (4061 metros), through the regular route in the West face (F+, II, 1300 slope metres) – Return to Chamonix
  • Day 4: Chamonix – Cable car of l´Aiguille du Midi – Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248 metres) through the regular route in the North-east face. (PD, 40º, 650 slope metres) – des Cosmiques shelter (3613 metres).
  • Day 5: Cosmiques shelter – Col du Mont Blanc du Tacul – Col du Mont Maudit – Col de la Brenva – Mont Blanc, known as the “route of the four-thousands” (PD+, 50º, 1450 slope metres) –Vallot shelter – du Goûter shelter – Nid d´Aigle – Cog railway to Bellevue – Cable car to Les Houches – Chamonix
  • Day 6: Vie. Chamonix – Reserve day
  • Day 7: Sap. Chamonix – Reserve day

  To dispose of the days 6th and 7th is necessary in case we need to change the day of the ascension to Mont-Blanc if the weather changes and they can be used if the programme has been performed according the plan to make another climb the group wants to like for example the Petit Verte, the Cosmicos edge…

  Description of the itinerary to Mont-Blanc

  CLIMB Cosmiques shelter – Col du Mt Blanc du Tacul – Col du Mt Maudit – Mont Blanc.

  Less frequented than the regular route that gives access to Mont Blanc via the edge of les Bosses, the route of the three “four-thousands” (longer and a little bit harder), progresses in an environment completely different where the mountaineers are more comfortable.

  From the Cosmiques shelther (3.612 m), descend to the Col du Midi (3.532 m) and go up in South on the broken slope due to seracs and cracks until the West face of the Mont Blanc de Tacul. Cross withouth losing height until reaching the base of the North face of Mont Maudit. Go up a sequence of increasingly broken slopes and cut by cracks, until reaching Col Maudit (4.315 m). Start a slightly descending way to the left that will lead us to Col de la Brenva.

  Continue south direction and go up the Mur de la Côte. Once reached the inferior Rochers Rouge, go up the slopes of the Mont Blanc North-east edge going through the superior Rochers Rouges (4.506 m.) and then the Petits Mulets (4.690 m). Go up the last slopes of the NE edge that will lead us to the top of the Mont Blanc (4.807 m.)

  Slope metres: About 1.400 m.

  Time: 6-8 hours
  DESCENT – Via the normal route through the les Bosses edge and the Dôme de Goûter

  Once you are in the Col du Dôme (4.513 m.), continue through the back of the edge direction SO to the Dôme du Goûter (4.304 m.). Then we will reach the de Goûter shelter (3.817 m.) below the spire with the same name. Go down direction Souteh through a decomposed channels system and sometimes with ice on them that can be dangerous due to the stones detachment when other roped parties ang groups Tête Rousse shelter (3.167 m.). Keep with the descent easily until the Nid d´Aigle (2.372 metres) where the Mont Blanc tram will take us to Bellevue (1.850 m.). Take a cable car to the village of Les Houches next to Chamonix.

  Slope metres until reaching Bellevue: about 2.957 metres

   

Details

• Ratio: 1 or 2 participants – 1 high mountain guide IFMGA
• Dates: From June to September
• Duration: 7 days
• Difficulty: PD
• Technical level PD: Even if this is a glacial ascension catalogued as PD, it's necessary to keep in mind that it is developed in the high mountain and that conditions change every year. It is necessary to have a good physical condition due to the height and the slope. It's necessary to be accustomed to progression with crampons and ice axes.
• Requirements: To be in possession of the FEDME card with the Europe modality of the current year.

 Price

• Price: 1 pax: 1500 euros / 2 pax: 800 euros per person
• Things included:

  IFMGA guide service, management, guide’s security technical material.

• Not included:

  Transport, trip costs and routes, shelter expenses and accomodation, cable cars… both client and guide (about 600€ per person).

 Necessary material

Adequate clothes for high mountain and intense cold. Gore-tex or similar jacket and trousers, rigid plastic or leather high mountain boots, leggings, 2 thermal-socks pairs, cap or balaclava helmet, thermal underwear and a change, sun and blizzard glasses, two pairs of gloves, crampons and ice axes, harness, a safety snap hook, a 7mm 2 metres line, 40-50 litres backpack, water bottle, attack food (sweet and salty), isotonic drink, sun cream, head torch and extra batteries, toilet bag, light sleeping bag.

* If you don’t have some of these technical materials, ask us about availability.